European travel during the Christmas season is defined by its festive atmosphere and traditional markets. While visiting Munich and Salzburg in December of 2024, I encountered this tasty treat that is a common fixture at these winter events: the Kürtőskalács, also commonly known as the Chimney Cake.
Soft Christmas Cheer wrapped in a crispy exterior, the dough is wrapped around a rotating spit and cooked overheat, causing the exterior sugar-coating to caramelise. The resulting steam from the freshly baked, hollow cylinder gives the pastry its ‘chimney’ name. The warm aroma of caramelised sugar and spices is a key component of the Christmas market experience.
A Brief History
The history of the Chimney Cake is traced back to the Hungarian-speaking regions of Transylvania. The earliest known recipe appears in a 17th-century Transylvanian cookbook. Historically, Kürtőskalács was a pastry reserved for significant events, such as celebrations and weddings, primarily within the Hungarian noble classes. Its popularity gradually broadened, establishing it as a traditional sweet found at seasonal fairs and markets across Central and Eastern Europe.
Chimney Cakes in Germany and Austria
During last year’s trip to Europe, my first opportunity to try a Chimney Cake was at the Christmas Market in Marienplatz. The market was crowded, but the cosiness in the cold drew me towards to the stalls that had these warm, soon to be discovered delicious treats. The dough is carefully wound onto the spits and rotated over the coals until they achieve a deep golden hue. Some even managed to employ a new purpose built solution that can be bought if you want to make these scrumptious treats at home.
The treats, coated with a standard cinnamon and sugar mix, provided a simple warmth that was welcome on a cold evening. Both my hands and core were warmed as I enjoyed these delicious treats. The texture is characterised by a crisp exterior crust and a soft, airy interior. If you’re looking for the ultimate market pairing, nothing beats enjoying your Chimney Cake alongside a steaming mug of classic German Glühwein. You’ll be singing Christmas Carols in no time.
In Salzburg, the Christkindlmarkt also featured stalls selling this dessert. It was here in Salzburg that I found a wider range of toppings available. While the traditional cinnamon and sugar was present, there were also options that incorporated ingredients like chopped nuts, cocoa powder and – soon to be discovered favourite – Nutella. Cinnamon is a go-to fav, but Nutella is a great choice for those that like their Hazelnuts.
Whether served with classic or contemporary toppings, the Chimney Cake represents a simple, seasonal indulgence. It is a traditional market food that is well-suited to the winter environment, and I highly recommend that you eat (and hold onto!) one on one of your frosty evenings in a German Christmas Market this year. As my trip came to an end, I did find a way to keep the magical cinnamon goodness alive at home.
